Several airlines offer low-priced domestic flights from Kotoka Airport, 10km (6mi) north-east of central Accra, to Kumasi and Tamale. Considerably slower but oh-so-adventurous, the Yapei Queen makes regularly scheduled 24-hour passenger runs across Lake Volta from Akosombo, 104km (65mi) north-east of Accra at the base of Lake Volta, to Yeji, more than 200km (125mi) away on the lake's north-western shore. The steamer stops at many villages on the way. From Yeji, ferries continue to Buipe, 100km (62mi) farther north-west, and Makongo, 15km (10mi) east; you can arrange ground transport to Tamale from either destination.


Ghana's road network is in decent shape, though there are some badly potholed stretches between Kumasi and Tamale, and almost all secondary roads are unsealed. You're bound to run into an occasional police checkpoint, though they're usually just angling for a 'dash' (the ubiquitous kickback). Car rental is expensive but available in Accra. Otherwise, most Ghanaians get around in taxis, tro-tros (minibuses) and mammy wagons (generally some sort of converted pickup truck).


Government-run buses connect most major towns and some smaller ones, but their service ain't what it used to be and it's usually better to travel with any of the private bus companies. A comfortable but slow railway system connects Accra, Kumasi and Takoradi in a single-track triangle. Only sleepers need to be booked in advance.